Grapes were one of the earliest fruits to be cultivated and they remain popular for both their fruits and their ornamental foliage. Before choosing a grape vine, you need to decide whether you want grapes for wine making or as table fruit, since there are different varieties bred for each use. The training methods vary too. For table grapes, the rod-and-spur system works best. If you want to grow grapes for wine making, it is well worth getting a book dedicated to growing grapes in your particular climate, so that you can choose an appropriate rootstock and training method.
Training and pruning are necessary to control the growth of the vine and to encourage fruiting. Grape vines are very long-loved, so choose the variety wisely. They need plenty of space, so you also need to consider carefully where to put them. Grapes are hardy plants but need a soil that is fertile and well drained, as well as long, warm summers, to fruit well. Commercially, grapes are grown on freestanding posts and horizontal wires. This works well in gardens too, but they can also be grown against a warm wall or with the main stem poked through a hoe in a greenhouse so the vince can be trained along the inside of the roof. Grapes make good conservatory plants and can be used to cover a pergola or an arch.
Planting And Pruning Grape Vines
1.In the fall or early winter, set up three horizontal wires at 18 in. Intervals, and plant the vine. In winter, cut the leading shoot to a strong bud near the first wire, and remove side shoots to one or two buds. In summer, tie the leader onto a cane. Cut back side shoots to five leaves. If any of these shoots have side shoots, pinch back to one leaf.
2.The second winter, cut back the leading shoot to two-thirds of the summer growth. The side shoots will also need cutting back to one bud, if growth is strong, or to two buds if it is weak. In summer, cut back as in the previous summer and also pinch out any flower trusses.
3.The third winter, prune as you did the second winter. When the leading shoot has ripe wood up to the top wire, shorten it and from then on prune as if it were a side shoot. By spring, shoots will be developing at each spur, so use your finger and thumb to pinch out al but the strongest two. Later, the weakest one can be shortened.
4.Established vines have a vertical leading shoot and side shoots that spread horizontally along the wires. In summer, prune side shoots from the stem back to five leaves if they have no flower trusses, and those with trusses to two leaves beyond the last truss. Pinch out trusses to leave one per side shoot, and any shoots arising from side shoots.
5.In winter, cut back the leader on an established vine to a bud below the top wire. Untie the leader and lower onto one of the horizontal wires. Return to position and tie in when the buds break in spring. Also, prune side shoots arising from the main stem to one or two buds. Thin out any congested spurs by sawing off old sections.
